

Does whisky age matter? How whisky ageing really works
How whisky ageing really works
The age of a whisky will always have an effect on the spirit, but it is just one of many levers a distillery can pull to manipulate the character of what's in your glass. The age statement on a bottle only refers to the time the whisky has been sitting in a cask. An age statement does not indicate the quality of the cask, the maturation conditions, the character of the new make spirit or the skill of the blending team. When coupled with all the other factors that influence a whisky's quality, the age statement may matter less than you first expect.
In this article we will explore how maturation works; how it affects the smell and taste of a whisky; what the number on a bottle means; and whether older whisky is better or not. This is The Whisky Club's Guide to ageing.
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Does whisky continue to age in the bottle?
The age statement on a bottle of whisky indicates how long it has spent in a wooden cask. It is an indication of the youngest whisky in the blend. It does not continue to age in the bottle as glass is inert, so it doesn't change the liquid inside.
That being said, over a number of decades, the liquid inside may change due to exposure to oxygen and sunlight. This is known as old bottle effect but it is a different process to those happening in a wooden cask and takes a very long time to become apparent.
How whisky ages in the cask
Whisky production by law must include some time ageing in a wooden cask. During this time it obtains it's natural colour, it loses youthful and undesirable immature flavours, and it becomes more complex with age. It is this combination of additive, subtractive and transformational maturation that gives whisky it's depth and complexity over time. For more information on where the flavours in your whisky come form, check out The Whisky Club's guide to flavour.
Here is a breakdown of what is happening during this incredible transformation.
What the cask gives the spirit
When spirit enters a cask it is classified as new make spirit. It is crystal clear in colour and carries the DNA or fingerprint of the distillery where it was made. When it emerges after maturation it is darker in colour, the most obvious sign that the cask has added something to the spirit. Oak type and previous contents will determine what this colour will be:
- Virgin American oak will give a deep brown colour, this is most apparent in an aged Bourbon
- Virgin European oak will give a much darker and redder colour
- Ex-Bourbon barrels will give a familiar golden colour with an olive oil green tinge
- Ex-Sherry casks will give a rich amber colour
- Ex-red wine casks will often give a dark red colour
In addition to adding all of a whiskies natural colour, oak will also add tannins. Like in a red wine, these can give a whisky viscosity and depth, but can also add astringency. The majority of the tannins are oak derived with European oak giving on average 5 times more tannin than American oak. There will also be a tannin delivery from any wine or Sherry left in the casks. This comes from the skin of the grapes.
Oak also adds sweeter flavour compounds like wood lactones and vanillin. Vanillin brings the common vanilla flavour to a whisky, and certain lactones will bring notes of toffee, caramel and coconut. Whereas European oak contains more tannin bringing dried fruits and bitter chocolate, you will get more pronounced vanilla and coconut notes from American oak.
This addition is not without danger as leaving a whisky in an active cask too long can lead to a very oaky, woody and spicy whisky. Luckily Blenders can address this in a blending lab, but it is a danger to look out for with many whiskymakers monitoring for this issue and trying to remove a whisky from a cask at the peak of it's maturation process effectively identifying a sweet spot.
This goes to show how important the oak selection, coopering and heat treatment of a cask are to the crafting of any whisky around the world as these decisions will impact the additive maturation processes.
The angel's share
The second job of a cask is to shed undesirable flavours and aromas. These include but are not limited to sulphur notes and immature aromas. This is known romantically as the Angels' Share.
The reason this happens is that oak is both watertight and porous. The wood contains things called tyloses. If the wood is cut properly, these will ensure that liquid can soak into the wood, but won't escape. They do however allow air in and out of the cask.
In the world of Scottish whisky, evaporation is around 2% of the volume of a cask every year. So the older a whisky gets, the less of it exists. Similarly every time a 12 year old whisky is bottled, you are depriving yourself of a 13 year old meaning that older whiskies are even scarcer. This is one reason older whiskies tend to be more expensive.
As for sulphur notes, a heavily charred cask will act as a natural filter. The charcoal layer will remove sulphur notes from the spirit mellowing it over time.
Transformative maturation
During whisky maturation, the reactions that take place over time are perhaps the most important and represent the magic people talk about when trying older whiskies. There are many reactions happening in a whisky cask at any given time but the most important might be oxidation.
All of the flavours that are endemic in the spirit and all of the flavours contributed by the cask will develop when in contact with oxygen. Tannins will soften, molecules will break down and aromas will change. Some vanilla aromas will develop into notes of almond; orange citrus flavours will transform into grapefruit; grassy notes become spearmint or watermelon and peat smoke may become more floral over a few decades.
Not only will the breadth of the flavour spectrum expand but the volume in the cask will decrease due to evaporation. This means that more flavour exists in less liquid so the flavour effectively intensifies and the complexity compounds.
Why climate matters
One overlooked yet important factor in whisky maturation is the climate. Summer and winter will bring high and low temperatures as well as pressure differences in the air. These will speed up or slow down interaction rates between spirit and oak. Whisky will take on more character and colour during hotter periods of the year.
There are minimal differences between the different regions in Scotland, but there are definitely noticeable differences between different whisky making countries.
- In Scotland the ABV tends to drop due to the high humidity in maturation warehouses. The average losses from a cask are around 2%.
- On mainland Australia and in Kentucky in the USA the losses will be higher and the ABV may even go up if the warehouse is in a hot and dry environment.
These climatic effects all factor into the thinking of resourceful whisky makers. Some will utilise hot and cold parts of a bond store to try and slow down or speed up oak interaction.
For an even deeper dive into casks, check out The Whisky Club's guide to casks.
What does a whisky age statement actually mean?
To legally be called a whisky it must be matured in a wooden cask for a minimum length of time.
- Scotch whisky must be aged in oak for at least 3 years. This applies to single malts, grain whisky and blends.
- Irish whiskey and Japanese whisky must be aged in wooden casks for a minimum 3 years
- Australian whisky must be aged in wooden casks for a minimum 2 years
- Straight American whiskey must be aged in oak for a minimum of 2 years. An age statement must be present if it is younger than 4.
If you see an age statement on a bottle of whisky, it represents the youngest whisky in the bottle. If you take our recent Living Souls release, this was a blend of 99% eighteen year old Ledaig and 1% three year old grain whisky. Legally, this is a three year old Scotch whisky.
To explore the differences between whiskies from around the world, check out The Whisky Club's guide to whiskies from different countries.
Does a higher age mean better whisky?
A whisky with a higher age statement isn't automatically a better whisky. The age statement simply states how long the whisky has spent in a wooden cask. It doesn't tell you the condition of the cask, the warehousing environment, the skill of the Master Blender or the different components in the blend. Generally speaking, older whisky should be more complex due to the effect of oxidation over time. But whether that complexity tastes desirable or not is affected by many other factors on top of time in a cask.
One thing a higher age statement will drive, is a higher price. This is simply because there is less of it due to evaporation over time.
Young vs old whisky: how the flavour differs
There is no doubt that older and younger whiskies taste different. This is due to older whiskies gaining more cask influence and losing more liquid through the angels' share. But perhaps the most noticeable difference is in complexity and smoothness due to transformative maturation.
Young whiskies can have more robust flavours and aromas whether intense peat smoke from the spirit, or spicy oak character from the cask. But as the whisky sits in the cask, these flavours are often broken down into others, masked or even lost through the Angels' Share. Tannins and spice mellow, smoke becomes more complex and fruitiness will transform and intensify.
Good examples of flavour transformations are orange citrus changing to grapefruit; orchard fruits developing into stone fruits which then change to tropical fruits; vanilla turning into almond and peat smoke developing a floral or fruity character.
Age statements vs NAS whisky
NAS stands for non-age statement. This means the youngest whisky in a bottle MAY be the youngest legally allowed, but NAS expressions are often more nuanced than this. Let's look at the main examples of NAS whiskies on the market:
- Standard blends like The Famous Grouse, J&B or Whyte & Mackay do not have age statements these days. This is because they will most likely have 3 year old whisky in the blend. This is an example where NAS points to the legal minimum age in the blend. The complexity in these whiskies is built from a variety of spirit styles and cask types, not from time breaking flavours down.
- Super premium blends like Johnnie Walker Blue Label don't have an age statement as it may give a false impression of what is in the marriage as the age range may vary greatly within the recipe. The Master Blender will often use whiskies as old as 30 or 40 years old in these blends. But may also need some 12-15 year old single malt whiskies to add another layer of flavour. By law, the age statement would need to be 12 even if the majority of the blend is older than 20, so the brand choose to reflect quality with a higher pricepoint.
- New distilleries will also use NAS when releasing young whiskies because putting a 3 or 4 year old age statement on a bottle may turn purchasers off even though the whisky may be full of their oldest stocks available and have a great balance between oak and spirit. The use of wine casks, peat smoke and early cut points will allow distillers to release perfectly acceptable malt whiskies at these young ages. Just look at the quality of NAS whiskies coming out of Tasmania and New Zealand these days.
- Famous single malt whisky distilleries like The Macallan may release very expensive NAS whiskies. Similar to the Johnnie Walker Blue Label example above, this gives the Whiskymaker the flexibility to dip into younger stocks and find the sweet spot between perhaps over-oaked older whiskies and fruitier younger expressions. Glenfarclas 190, Balvenie Tun 1401 and The Macallan Time-Space Mastery both contained whisky from multiple decades, an age statement would simply point to the youngest component which detracts from the unique story behind each of these single malts.
Our advice when it comes to NAS whiskies is to focus on things other than age. Look at distillery, cask type, tasting notes and pricepoint. These will give a much better indication of quality than the lack of age statement.
Explore aged and NAS whisky with The Whisky Club
Here at The Whisky Club our whiskies are selected based on their flavour. This means we feature both NAS and age statement whiskies throughout the year. When we do feature a NAS whisky, we will give you as much information as we can about the whisky in the bottle. This includes all of the aforementioned characteristics like ABV, oak type, flavour profile, spirit style and where we can we will indicate minimum age.
Frequently asked questions
Does whisky get better with age in the bottle?
Whisky will not age in a bottle. It's taste may change over a number of years, but this is different to the ageing in a cask. If a bottle is opened and has some out of it, it may flatten over time and lose flavour. There is also a factor known as old bottle effect where a bottle from decades ago might showcase characteristics that modern whiskies of the same age don't contain. There is no way to prove whether this difference in taste is due to time in bottle or production processes from the time it was made.
Can you drink a 50-year-old bottle of whisky?
Yes. Whisky doesn't go out of date and many bottles from decades ago pop up on auction. As long as they are not in leaden glass or ceramic, they should be safe to drink.
Is 12-year-old whisky better than a younger whisky?
12 year old whiskies on the shelf will show more aged characteristics than younger ones, but whether a 12 year old is better or not is down to the preferences of the drinker. The Master Blender will always look to find balance in a whisky, and different styles of spirit take different times to find this balance. The best example of this is the Classic Malts range from Diageo. Take Glenkinchie 12, Dalwhinnie 15 and Lagavulin 16 - all three are perfectly balanced between oak and spirit, but Glenkinchie (being lighter in character from taller stills) takes 12 years to reach balance, whereas Dalwhinnie with shorter, squatter stills takes 15 and Lagavulin with it's oily, peaty spirit takes 16 years.
Is whisky really aged for 12 years?
If it says 12 on the bottle, every drop has spent a minimum 12 years in a cask in a warehouse.
Does an opened bottle of whisky keep ageing?
Unfortunately not. An opened bottle will develop in flavour with some lighter notes becoming apparent in the first few weeks, but may become flat if opened for a number of years, but it doesn't develop the same way it would in a cask.
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