January 2016 Whisky of the Month:
Another Australian debut and exclusive import, Tomatin Legacy has consistently been the most popular whisky at Club HQ. Join The Club now for exclusive access to more exciting drams like this each month and great member perks.
Country of Origin:
Tomatin is a remote Highland distillery located up in the Monadhliath Mountains near Inverness in Scotland. At 315 metres above sea level, it’s also one of the highest distilleries in Scotland after Dalwhinnie, about 40 miles South West.
The distillery, known then as the Tomatin Spey District Distillery Ltd, was established in 1897 during the height of the Victorian Whisky Boom but predictably it suffered during the ensuing industry-wide bust brought about by the collapse of flamboyant blenders, Pattinsons Ltd. The team managed to ride out the worst of the bust but eventually filed for bankruptcy in 1906. A new consortium stepped in, and by 1909 it was business as usual at the renamed Tomatin Distillery Co Ltd.
The next forty years or so were fairly uneventful until the 1950s when Scotch whisky once again entered a boom. This boom however lasted nearly 30 years and set the foundation for whisky as we know it today, and Tomatin was right at the front of this charge.
Seeing early signs of good times ahead, the enterprising folks at Tomatin started thinking big, really big. In 1956 they doubled their stills from two to four, then added another two in 1958 and by 1974, boasting 23 stills, Tomatin was the largest distillery in Scotland producing a vast 12 million litres of spirit annually. To put this in context, it was (in production terms at least) larger even than Roseisle, Diageo’s new $80million mega-distillery. This period also saw the emergence of single malts for the first time and while the majority of the whisky made at Tomatin was sold in bulk for use in well-known blended whiskies such as J&B, Chivas Regal and Johnnie Walker, it was also one of the few distillers to offer a single malt, initially a 5 year Old, and later also a 10 Year Old.
Unfortunately the success and expansion of Tomatin was also its demise. Rapid expansion exposed it to risk and while it managed to weather most of the early 1980s recession, it finally went bust in 1984. Fortunately help was close at hand in the form of Tomatin’s biggest customer, Takara Shuzo Co., who also happened to be Japan’s largest drinks producer. Japan, like the USA, had exited the recession early and Takara Shuzo Co. seized the opportunity to become the first Japanese company to fully own a Scottish distillery. By 1986 it was once again business as usual at Tomatin.
Whisky making is a way of life at Tomatin with more than eighty percent of the work force living at the distillery. Back in 1897 the distillery’s remote location meant there was no access to a local workforce, so the architect included a number of houses to accommodate workers and their families. Over the years the distillery has added more houses and today the settlement of Tomatin has 30 houses, many of which have now been inhabited by several generations of the same family, all working together at the distillery.
In terms of production, Tomatin is still one of Scotland’s top 10 malt whisky distilleries and boasts, in addition to its own village; an onsite cooperage, 14 warehouses, a vast reserve of maturing whisky and an unwavering focus on producing excellent Highland single malt. Their efforts are certainly not in vain if the recent string of awards are anything to go by. The core range scored higher than ever in Jim Murray’s 2016 Whisky Bible with marks consistently above 91.5/100 and the team’s dedication to whisky excellence was recognised and celebrated recently at the 2016 Icons of Whisky Awards, when their industry peers voted Tomatin ‘Distillery of the Year’. Having been the biggest, Tomatin is now well and truly on its way to being the best.
About Tomatin Single Malt Whisky:
Tomatin makes a lighter, unpeated style of whisky that is often called “the softer side of the Highlands”. The late, great Michael Jackson described the house style as “Malty, spicy, rich. Restorative or after dinner”, and it’s basically a grown-up’s whisky.
The distillery operates twelve stills (each with a capacity of 16,800 litres), twelve stainless steel washbacks (each with a 7000 litre capacity) and one 8-tonne Lautner tun. Tomatin was the first distillery to switch from the traditional mash tun, which uses rakes to turn the barley, to a Lauter mash-tun, which employs the use of rotating knives to improve the extraction of soluble starch from the barley.
While traditionally selling the vast majority of its whisky to third-party blenders, since 2002 the distillery’s main focus has been on producing single malt and today more than twenty percent of their whisky is bottled as single malt. The balance is used for blending, mainly for their own brands, which include Antiquary, Legendary Scot and Talisman. Tomatin have recently begun making lightly peated single malt called Cù Bòcan, production of which takes place over a seven-week period each year.
The core range of single malts did exceptionally well in Jim Murray’s 2016 Whisky Bible with the Legacy bringing in 94.5 points, 12 Year Old 91.5 points, 14 Year Old 92.5 points, 18 Year Old 92.5 points, 1988 Vintage 95.5 points and the 36 Year Old romping home with 96.5 points.
This month’s whisky is the distillery’s flagship, the Tomatin Legacy. It carries no age statement, having been composed to specific taste rather than age and has been described as one of the best examples of a non-age statement whisky on the market. It’s comprised of whisky matured in ex-Bourbon and Virgin Oak casks and the use of Virgin Oak brings vibrancy and sweetness in the form of fresh tannins, lignins and vanillins that would otherwise have been lost to a previous life as a bourbon cask. The result is a beautiful example of Tomatin’s soft and delicate style.
Price including postage and GST:
Age on release:
Matured in ex-Bourbon and Virgin Oak casks
Tomatin quick facts
Place of origin: Tomatin, Inverness, Inverness-Shire, IV13 7YT, Scotland, United Kingdom
Water source: Alt-na Frith
Washbacks: 12 x Stainless Steel
Number of stills: 6 wash stills and 6 spirit stills
Capacity: 5,000,000 litres per annum
Colour: Light gold
Nose: Vanilla pods, marshmallow, sponge cake and fresh pineapple, mixed with citrus lemon and boiled sweets
Palate: Light and delicate with a malty sweetness peppered with hints of pine. Lemon sherbet, pineapple and crunchy green apples with a touch of freshly baked sponge cake
Finish: Clean, light and refreshing, leaving fresh, sweet, malty and oaky flavours in the mouth
Smoked salmon and dressed crab followed by Cranachan, a traditional Scottish dessert of whipped cream and whisky with toasted oatmeal and raspberries – delicious!